Not More Food Pictures!

Yes, more. Soul restaurant on the water in Auckland. Whole flounder. Best fish ever. And talented. This fish learned to swim in butter, lemon and capers.

Geezer Beer

Session IPA recommended by the waiter at an interesting place XuXu, around the corner from us. A hopping bar on Friday night, they serve only one food. Dumplings. We had the fish, lime and chili - steamed. Nice snack.

Happy New Year!

Welcome to 2017 from Auckland, NZ, the first place in the world to ring in the New Year (yes, we know there are a couple small islands that are really first but hey, a little poetic license). It was a warm night, about 68 degrees. There was almost no security. There were a few policemen, but no dogs, no guns, no bomb trucks. In front of the Sky Tower just an hour before the show, you could walk around anywhere.  Not too many people even though this is the absolute peak of the season for Auckland and THE night of the year.  We went down to the Prince's Wharf last night to watch the fireworks.  When the fireworks started, everyone just poured out of all the bars and restaurants onto the wharf.  Really fun.  Fireworks lasted just about 5 minutes but they do in fact shoot them off from the Sky Tower, right in the middle of all the buildings downtown.

All the Views on Waiheke

Many wonder how there can be such ridiculously gorgeous views in every direction.  Check it out.  The island is only 12 miles long and anywhere from 0.5 to 6 miles wide.   But the coastline has 25 miles of beaches making up the 80 mile coastline.   So every time you turn around, view, view view.  

You could easily get whiplash. Fortunately there are many points with nearly 360 degree views so you can just gently turn and soak in the scene.

Even though I feel like we crawled all over this island last week, there is a proper 100 km multi-day hike around the island that I'd like to do next time we're here.  

No Vegetable Left Behind

You know I can't throw away a fruit or vegetable without a real try to use it in some dish.  Last breakfast on Waiheke was a frittata with our remaining eggs, milk, gruyere, roasted red pepper, broccolini, mushrooms, caramelized onions, and streaky bacon. It was pretty good!  

When we packed up to leave, we still had cherries, cucumber, some garlic, shallots, and more.  So they all joined us on our trip, along with my basil plant which has been traveling with us for a few weeks now.  We got it in the town of Kerikeri at a farmers' market and though we've used it a lot, it keeps growing!  

We ditched our car once we got to Auckland, so this stuff came to our apartment in Auckland but we'll either use it or lose it here before our flight to Queenstown in a few days. 

Is that a traveling frying pan in the picture? Yes. Though our house in Waiheke was well stocked, it lacked a decent non-stick pan, so we bought one.  I'd normally leave it as a house gift, but with another week to go in a new place and eggs to fry, I took no chances.  
Have pan and fresh basil, will travel.
   

Morning Biking in Devonport

Took the ferry from downtown Auckland about 10 minutes to the suburb of Devonport, then rented bikes and toured a little. Beautiful beaches and homes, reminds me of Santa Barbara. Would be a great place to live if you worked downtown. Bike trail led up to an old military base with dramatic views of Auckland. Worth the climb.

Te Whau Vineyard. WOW.

Right before our ferry to Auckland, we decided to sneak in a quick visit to Te Whau.  Shared a vertical tasting of their "The Point" Bordeaux blend from 2012-2015.  They also have a great wine list from many other areas in NZ.  

Called  "One of the most achingly beautiful and dramatic places a vineyard has ever taken root" by Wine International Magazine, they don't exaggerate! 

They also have one of the top restaurants in the region, so who could resist?  We had a salad of spinner crab with wasabi mousse, radishes, coriander, salmon caviar, mint and lime, beautifully presented and the best crab salad we've ever had.  Also had a great seared, sesame-crusted kingfish.  Served over a carrot and mango confit and with a really good coconut chutney.  Yes, another stupid food picture. I guess I want to remind myself of how lovely the meal was.   

A Long Walk to Ponsonby

We took a long walk from the Auckland waterfront to the Ponsonby neighborhood in Auckland. Beautiful area but very hilly and a bit of a climb as you can see. It also seemed to be very quiet when we were there around 3 in the afternoon on a Friday so we were a little disappointed. Much of the city is shutting down for summer holidays but we're excited about New Year's Eve tomorrow night. Our apartment is just behind the Sky Tower visible in the background.

Hiking Around Stony Batter

Stony Batter is an area on the far eastern side of the island.  About 50 acres scattered with unusual and huge boulders resulting from volcanic activity, it was also the site of a WWII defense position in the Harauki gulf. There were three large gun emplacements which had  range of about 30km, and a network of tunnels.  The guns were never used but the site is well preserved and you can wander around the pits. 



But the best reason to go to Stony Batter is to hike.  It's all grass and paths with sheep grazing everywhere and yet more unbeatable views.  It's a long walk downhill to the beach then really long one back.

At the end of the path, there is a harbor beach -- completely deserted, as the only way to get there is walk an hour downhill (then back up) -- or come in by boat.  The land around it is privately owned, but they allow access. For years, the landowner disputed any right of way across his land because apparently people were stealing his stock, occasionally barbecuing right onsite.

Eva, this one's for you.  I call it "a leap with sheep". 

Payoff after 3-4 hours kayaking ...

Some bubbles at Stonyridge Vineyard ...

 A little pizza at Passage Rock Vineyard ...

Then dinner at the Oyster Inn in Oneroa, the main town on the island.  Ah, more Te Matuku oysters, followed by little neck clams with chorizo, shallot, fennel, garlic, tomato and parsley.  Then a small but very rich bowl of their mac and cheese with bacon.  

Christmas Day Late Breakfast

The morning of Christmas Eve, we went to a local farmers market just a 10 minute walk from our house, conveniently across the street from a great bakery and a block away from the Countdown grocery store. 

So we had locally made pork and rosemary sausage from the farmer's market, sourdough bread toasted, lovely fruit, eggs, fresh basil and tomato.  Hey, we can take foodie photos of our own creations if we want. Not quite the same, but our views from our house were even better than the ones from Mudbrick!



Bloody Mary for John, Champagne with just squeezed OJ for me -- and that's all that stands between us and a big old nap in our back yard this afternoon, followed by a grand hike on one of the many, many hiking trails.  They all involve lots of up and down so I'm sure we can work off the brunch. 

Chistmas Eve Dinner at Mudbrick Vineyard

A perfect way to kick off Christmas!  A beautiful setting on Waiheke Island, great weather, and -- uh oh -- the food pictures are showing up. This was one of the most well presented meals ever, and every dish absolute perfection.  I couldn't have been happier.  With great credit to John, he made some advanced reservations for our house, our Christmas dinner, and a few other key things.  We would surely have been shut out otherwise, as the island is definitely hopping now!

The property is on the west end of the island, which has some of the best hikes and walks - and a few other nice vineyards we visited like Cable Bay.

 

We can't get enough of the local Te Matuku oysters (and champagne) followed by some Atlantic king scallops with edamame, tete de cochon croquette, citrus tapioca and black quinoa.  I also had tuna Ika Mata, with watermelon, coconut, yuzu and coriander.  Then we had our main courses - sparing you the photos, but I had a beautiful fresh variation on a Caesar salad with white anchovies, grana padano, quail egg, chicken and brioche; John had a shellfish laksa with vanilla, lemon, black dauphine.  Desert was a deconstructed carrot cake, with cream cheese, walnuts, salted caramel ice cream.  Everything was outstanding! 

When we travel, John is all about where we're staying, and I'm all about what we're eating. It's a dangerous but fun combination!

Sea Kayaking In the Hauraki Gulf

West of the Coromandel Peninsula near Auckland. Sea kayaking is quite a workout but views you can't get any other way. Worth it!

Hiking Around Waiheke

This island has many many miles of great hiking tracks, so you can do anything from an easy amble to a strenuous workout. In any case, you have great views around every corner.  And you never know what you'll run into ... like a hedgehog ...

Or some random sculpture in the middle of nowhere ...

 

We chose a path today Matiatia-Owhanake-Oneroa, one of the nicest walks. Despite advice (from the house owner "Don't bring Granny", signs posted along the trail "EXPERIENCED TRAMPERS ONLY" and even warnings "The last 100M of the trail are not passable within 3 hours of high tide") we somehow forged ahead. Even though we had no idea what time high tide was. It was a very tough climb up and down and all around the tops of steep cliffs.  

There were stunning views in every direction, but as we tried to make our way back to Matiatia we ended up having to scramble around rock outcroppings at the ocean, climb through Pohutukawa trees perched at the edge of the water, then grab onto grasses and pricker bushes to get around a steep hill at high tide.  Let's just say the path was not well worn. 

Note to self:  know the tides.

Lunch at Casita Miro Winery

Beautiful spot, great wine and tapas. With a Spanish influence from its menu to the Gaudi inspired sculptures on the grounds, Casita Miro is a popular stop on the Waiheke wine trail. We had a great lunch there and then enjoyed a glass of wine on the hill overlooking the ocean. Elizabeth fits right in with the Gaudi creations, no?

Christmas Lights Waiheke

Most of us have been to one of those huge Christmas light displays where you either drive or walk through. New Zealanders don't seem to be much for Christmas lights, either outside or inside. You just don't see them. This one made the entire front page of the Waiheke Island newspaper. One couple did it to raise money for hospice. A small step but a nice one. What you see was about all there was.

Man O' War Vineyard

We were here 5 years ago and it was literally a trailer with no parking, seating or anything but a tasting.  Today, the Pohutukawa are all grown in ... and now they are selling their nice wines for $125/bottle (Merry Christmas John).

But the view is just as incredible as it first was, right on Man O' War Bay.  About 10 people were swimming right off the beach there.  Kids playing all over while their parents enjoyed a cheese plate and wine.

 

 Now the trailer is replaced with a few buildings and even indoor plumbing!  

The pictures definitely don't do it justice.  John's favorite vineyard on earth (so far).  Unbeatable setting.

Why Waiheke for Christmas, You Ask?

Any other questions?  

This looks completely fake, doesn't it?  But this is what you see in pretty much any direction you turn. Plus great art, sculpture gardens, fabulous hikes, beautiful beaches and bays. Add some sheep, cows and horses to make the landscape more interesting, and pepper in about 30 fine vineyards with fantastic restaurants.  It is really paradise and just about an hour by ferry from Auckland. Population is around 8,000 with another 3,000 who have holiday/second homes here.  

Rated by Conde Nast 2016 4th best island in the world and Lonely Planet 2016 5th best destination in the world!  We agree.  If you are coming to NZ and don't take the time to see this stunning island, you are making a huge mistake.

The Pre-Holiday Rush

Our House for the Week on Waiheke

We've never spent Christmas away from home, but this will be fun.  John reserved this perfect little house about 6 months ago.  It's all about the indoor/outdoor living - with doors that open about 1/2 the house to the outside.  Views from everywhere overlooking the crystal clear blue waters of Anzac Bay, and we have large Pohutukawa trees (see our other post about NZ's Christmas Tree) 

That's the view from the deck and when you look over the island in the kitchen.  The kitchen is really well stocked to cook anything, and we're planning the Christmas menu now. We are also stocking  up on supplies, as this Island will be virtually shut down on Christmas and Boxing Day.

And here's the dining table for our Christmas feast!

The deck is enormous with both gas and charcoal grills, seating for about 20.  

Apparently it's also a great place for a nap :)

 

The bedroom upstairs has another nice deck looking into the lush gardens all around us, plus more views of the bay from a huge picture window in the front.   

We offer no pictures of the living room (it's large with cathedral ceilings and 2 seating areas) but we want no memories of the world's most uncomfortable couches.  

Off to Waiheke Island

A great, sunny day for the ferry to Waiheke and a chance to stay put for a few days over Christmas. There is a passenger only ferry from the downtown Auckland piers to Waiheke but this car ferry leaves from about 30 minutes outside the city and is the only way to get your car to the island. The trip takes about 45 minutes and costs $190 round trip for a car and two people! We were incredibly lucky, pulling up 5 minutes before the ferry left and without the required reservation but we still got on.

The Matakana Village Pub

Found this great pub in the Village of Matakana about one hour north of Auckland - surprisingly upscale like a mini Yountville CA. Return to civilization! Unfortunately this picture just shows a shot of the outside garden from the street because the place was packed with about 75 building contractors there for a Christmas party being thrown by the local building supply company. They had a big meat smoker going, and these guys were throwing down many beers in the garden. Nice setup with lots of tables, chairs, couches and plenty of good food.