Thursday, January 13, 2011

Burning ghat at Varanasi, India


Varanasi is one of the holiest sites in India. Both Hindu and muslim pilgrims come to Varanasi by the millions. It is the dream of many of those to be cremated here when they die, believing that when their ashes are scattered in the Ganges their cycle of reincarnation will be broken and they will go directly to heaven. This is a picture of a "burning ghat", essentially a crematorium. The body, atfer being prepared by the family barber, is wrapped in a shroud and driven or carried to the ghat. It's common to see bodies being carried or driven on the roofs of cars throughout the city. The body is first brought to the river bank and dipped in the river. Then it is laid on the river bank to dry while the eldest son goes to negotiate to purchase the wood for the funeral pyre. He also changes into all white clothes. When he returns the funeral pyre is built, the body is laid on the pyre and the son now goes to negotiate again - this time for fire to light the pyre. The fire can only be obtained from the family responsible for maintaining the eternal flame. Essentially he is negotiating for a small ember to use to light the fire. At this ghat the same family has been maintaining the fire for 1000 years. Once he obtains the ember the pyre is doused with ghee (clarified butter) and lit. The fire will take about 3-4 hours to consume the body almost entirely. The ashes and anything left are then thrown in the river. Although you can - and we did - take your boat literally right up to the river bank, this is the closest you are allowed to take photos and this was with a telephoto lens. Each of the fires you see is a separate pyre. You can also see huge piles of wood everywhere.

4 comments:

  1. Couldn't you find a better hotel?

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  2. What a great photo and commentary. Thanks for taking the time.

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  3. wow. i'm not sure that's where i want to go when i die, but i love the tought of andrew having to negotiate wood and fire and wear a white cloth on my behalf. he'd only do it if he thought he could meet some chicks there. dag

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  4. I want this framed when you get home. Unless you want to send the pic now...

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